Wednesday 28th October - Thursday 29th October 2009
Days 122 - 123
The Ilala Ferry is legendary in Malawi. This colossal cargo ship travels northbound once a week up Lake Malawi taking three days. We wanted a piece of Ilala action but the problem was it left on Friday and today was Wednesday. We were a long way from the Malawi border let alone Monkey Bay at the southern tip of the lake where the boat departed.
The plan was to travel by chapas to Beira 450km north of Vilankulo. From here we would take an afternoon internal flight to Tete, the closest city to the Malawian border where we'd somehow get to the border, hopefully get through ok and travel the remaining 400km north to Monkey Bay. This was a big ask.
We woke at 3.30am and took the 4.30am chapas to Beira. We actually set off in daylight with ridiculously early sunrises the norm in Mozambique at this time of year. Whilst we had the leg room thanks to the luxuary of a trailer on this chapas we were sat directly above the engine so were utterly sweltering in the heat. Our mind was taken off this thankfully by the buzz of activity in all the villages with today election day. There was also the other distraction of the chickens making an appearance shortly into the trip.
The roads were appalling with chapas-sized potholes causing the driver to via off the road at times. On one occasion he hit a pot hole with an almighty bang. He stopped the vehicle with our hearts pounding as we'd left very little room to manouvre between arriving in Beira and catching our flight. We then heard a hammer clinking and feared the worst. However, on getting out of the vehicle we were relieved to see it was actually the vehicle behind us that had the problem. Our driver had just kindly stopped to help.
Onwards we pressed with bum in the numb stage of travel and sleep simply not possible on this bumpy ride.
We arrived in Beira, retreived our bags and got a taxi to the derelict airport. Here we boarded our plane with the four other passengers from Beira to Tete.
On arrival in Tete we haggled down a cab driver to take us to some accomodation. He offered us a good price to get us to the border the next day. With the sun setting over the Zambesi river en route to our hotel we felt we were on track but were still unsure of transport in Malawi.
Our hotel was frankly disgusting. It was the hotel equivalent of Trainspotting's toilet scene. We longed for our tent. Tete itself was full of drunk locals maybe celebrating or drowning their sorrows over the election result. We found a bar where we humoured some hammered blokes called Mario and Moses. 'The question iz diz....The question iz diz.......What iz the question?' Moses slurred. This was about the most sense we got from them. Nice chaps though.
The next morning we were picked up by Ibrihim who picked up his dolled up wife for the trip. We crawled back over the bridge crossing the Zambesi which opened at 7am having been closed overnight. We then pushed on through secluded villages on sparse roads potholed in places but mainly tidily tarmaced which pleased our all too anxious driver careful not to damage his modified Mitsibushi.
On border arrival we battled through the swarm of black market money exchangers and got stamped out of the country into no mans land which covered 5km between Mozambique and Malawi. We picked up a reduced rate cab with passenger door loosely hanging by its hinges and were dropped at Malawian immigration.
Once through we were put into the sticky paws of two young drivers Oscar and Godfrey. Over the course of the journey our relationship with these lads turned into a rollercoaster ride. It started well before spiralling as they became all too greedy en route attempting to scam more money out of us. We weren't best pleased but over the course of this ride managed to compromise and get them to drive us further than the closest town to a major junction town two hours away which benefitted their pockets and our travel comfort to Lake Malawi.
They felt we'd haggled them down too much but couldn't refuse the extra cash so were a little moody. However a coke apiece and long football conversation got them back onside allowing an insight into their real personalities and not just the opportunistic taxi drivers. We left them with smiles, shakes off the hand and a tip as we clambered on board a 30 seater bus which would take us the remainder of the journey. We had timed it perfectly arriving at the junction just as the bus was setting off. The boys had done us proud.
After many stops we arrived in Monkey Bay around 4pm where we enquired about the ferry the next day (all ok) and found a quaint half finished accomodation in an idyllic setting offering camping at a cheap rate. We spent the night in this quaint little cove releived to be back in the tent and a beautiful setting. A far cry from last night. Here we listened to the owner talk about his big plans for the site. Next door was the presidents holiday home which gives you some idea of the goldmine he was sitting on. A lot of work and red tape involved though.
We'd made it and tomorrow would set off on the Ilala ferry up Lake Malawi at 10.30am.
Showing posts with label zambesi river. Show all posts
Showing posts with label zambesi river. Show all posts
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Country Off - Namibia vs Botswana
Sunday 11th October - Friday 16th October 2009
Day 105 - 110
It seems unfair to pitch two countries off against each other but for some reason Layla and I found ourselves comparing and contrasting the two even though they were extremely different.
Whilst I preferred Namibia, Layla sided with Botswana. I loved the arid feel of Namibia, the desert, the rock and the peacefulness. Then heading up north things started to go insane. Birds the size of light aircrafts with nests we'd be quite comfortable for size in, ant hills the size of mountains and all this before we'd even reached Etosha National Park.
However, Layla has a good point in that we've definitely had a better rapport with the Botswanan people. They like a bit of banter and we found them far less serious than the Namibians. This was even evident at the border crossing where we were stamped out of Namibia by a grumpy chap who we disturbed reading his newspaper. It was a twitchy time actually as he wasn't impressed we didn't have a stamp into his country (fair enough) but he stamped and threw us back our passports and back to his crossword. On the contrary we got to the Botswanan office to be stamped in and were greeted by a giggly group who wished us well and happily stamped us on our way.
30 minutes into our drive and we'd seen an elephant cross the road and Layla had an officer in hysterics at a foot and mouth dipping station. 'What are you checking for?' Layla asked the lady who asked us to remove our baggage from the car to be checked. 'Meat, shoes and drugs' she replied. 'What a crazy combination' Layla said. 'I know!' said the lady and burst out laughing.
There was also a lot more order to Botswana. Evidence of this could again be seen at the border crossing. We arrived at the Namibian side on dirt road and left the other side on freshly laid Tarmac. There were designated dumping grounds and bus stations in each town. Something Namibia lacked. But what got Layla more than anything was the greenery. With the major national parks based around natural water systems the size of small countries (the Ovokango Delta, the Chobe river, the Zambesi and Victoria Falls) this place was illuminous green, dayglow green, Bermuda short green. Botswana was green.
The Ovokango Delta was a nice lazy experience travelling through the giant reeds of the delta guided by Tombo, our poler. What the man lacked in words he made up for with arm muscles. He negotiated us through the complex passageways of these shallow waters in our dugout canoe knowing the area like the back of his hand (which was also pretty big).
The drive from Ovokango Delta to Chobe National Park took us east for around 300km then north for around 300km on roads the worst we'd experienced in Africa so far. Yaris sized potholes lined the roads waiting for its victim. Construction was taking place but it looked like slow progress. The problem became clear when we saw a roadwork sign. The one we're all familiar with. One guy sillouette digging a mound. Well behind the sign was literally one guy with a shovel with 300km of road behind him.
It certainly made us appreciate the Dunlop SP10 passenger tyres that have done a sterling job so far. Did I mention I used to be in the tyre game?
A couple of Windhoek beers and some Tbone on the braii was just the tonic after a treacherous drive. If the Tbone was the tonic the accomodation was the gin as we pitched our tent on the grounds of a luxurious lodge paying a few dollars for the priviledge of using all of their facilities.
The next day we decided to do three countries in one day. We took a tour of the border to Victoria Falls. Unaware of which side of the falls we would visit (Zambia or Zimbabwe) the welcome to Zimbabwe sign on arrival at the border gave it away. Here I was penalised for being a Brit charged 50 bucks as opposed to the thirty everybody else paid. When Layla remonstrated the tour guide responded with 'Britain make Zimbabweans pay 80!' Only the Canadians and Angolans had to pay more. Lord only knows what they've done to rub Mugabe up the wrong way.
It was a great day. The falls were colossal but there was a great rainforest walk you could do to view the falls from all different angles. We also decided to cross the suspension bridge passed the bungee jump rope and into Zambia. Here we were pounced on by touts selling bungee jumps, wooden carvings and other things to earn a swift dollar. It was hot. We felt a little harrassed so retreated to the comforts of the Victoria Falls Hotel where we were picked up and taken back to Botswana.
It's funny when travelling how a day can turn on its head. Disaster start to the day spilling coffee all over my front before driving to Chobe National Park where they took one look at the Yaris and shook their head. You needed a 4x4. Back at the lodge things didn't get any better as the river cruise into the park was full. We were at a loose end before Layla persisted and managed to get us a sunset cruise with a small operator.
I had visions of a dingy/canoe. However, while everbody queued for their cruise we skipped past the line on to a small tinny with a powerful motor and a friendly guide who proceeded to show and tell everything he knew about the Chobe river and the animals in and around. From why crocodiles bake to the hunting techniques of the sea eagle right through to the resiliance of the buffalo and as he explained with a straight face 'the hippo is the most dangerous animal in the river. It can knock you out the boat then cut you into pieces with teeth like scissors' But on the brighter side he explained 'hippo only use teeth for battle. They eat grass with their lips' and pointed to a freshly lip mowed stretch of grass.
The boat journey itself would have given us our money's worth but the animals we saw up at close quarters was almost surreal in this setting. Hippos bobbing up out the water to get a breather. Crocs baking in the setting sun. Elephants and buffalo coming down to the riverbank to get their drink at dusk. Giraffe in the distance Our first sight of the warthog and plenty of zebra coming out to say hi to the three people in the tinny. Hands down highlight of the trip so far.
The day was topped off with a meat buffet from the heavens at the lodge.
The following day we set off at 6am driving past some of the iconic images we'll remember Botswana for. These included elephants chewing trees on the side of the highway, impala crossing the road and election campaigners preaching through megaphones down the streets (nationwide voting would take place the next day.)
Onwards we would drive clocking up the kilometres through the buzz of Francistown where election fever had definitely took hold. Lots of activity, people dressed in their party's colours as well as dancing. Layla asked a guy at the petrol station whether he would be voting 'Of course' he said. 'I vote for the ruling party. The democrats. The reds.' He would be one of only 20% of Botswanans who vote. We would certainly have to read up on the outcome at a later date.
Over the border back to South Africa we travelled into amazing boulder landscape, through the small city of Polkane, surely the smallest city to host World Cup group games but a whole lot of chaotic atmosphere to boot. And up into the hills where we fell upon a lovely town called Haenertsburg with a lodge down a small gravel track. Arriving after dark and insisting we would be ok putting up our tent the owners would have nothing of the sorts giving us a log cabin that overlooked the mountains for the price of the campspot. Lovely lovely people and only our second night outside the tent since starting our African journey.
Day 105 - 110
It seems unfair to pitch two countries off against each other but for some reason Layla and I found ourselves comparing and contrasting the two even though they were extremely different.
Whilst I preferred Namibia, Layla sided with Botswana. I loved the arid feel of Namibia, the desert, the rock and the peacefulness. Then heading up north things started to go insane. Birds the size of light aircrafts with nests we'd be quite comfortable for size in, ant hills the size of mountains and all this before we'd even reached Etosha National Park.
However, Layla has a good point in that we've definitely had a better rapport with the Botswanan people. They like a bit of banter and we found them far less serious than the Namibians. This was even evident at the border crossing where we were stamped out of Namibia by a grumpy chap who we disturbed reading his newspaper. It was a twitchy time actually as he wasn't impressed we didn't have a stamp into his country (fair enough) but he stamped and threw us back our passports and back to his crossword. On the contrary we got to the Botswanan office to be stamped in and were greeted by a giggly group who wished us well and happily stamped us on our way.
30 minutes into our drive and we'd seen an elephant cross the road and Layla had an officer in hysterics at a foot and mouth dipping station. 'What are you checking for?' Layla asked the lady who asked us to remove our baggage from the car to be checked. 'Meat, shoes and drugs' she replied. 'What a crazy combination' Layla said. 'I know!' said the lady and burst out laughing.
There was also a lot more order to Botswana. Evidence of this could again be seen at the border crossing. We arrived at the Namibian side on dirt road and left the other side on freshly laid Tarmac. There were designated dumping grounds and bus stations in each town. Something Namibia lacked. But what got Layla more than anything was the greenery. With the major national parks based around natural water systems the size of small countries (the Ovokango Delta, the Chobe river, the Zambesi and Victoria Falls) this place was illuminous green, dayglow green, Bermuda short green. Botswana was green.
The Ovokango Delta was a nice lazy experience travelling through the giant reeds of the delta guided by Tombo, our poler. What the man lacked in words he made up for with arm muscles. He negotiated us through the complex passageways of these shallow waters in our dugout canoe knowing the area like the back of his hand (which was also pretty big).
The drive from Ovokango Delta to Chobe National Park took us east for around 300km then north for around 300km on roads the worst we'd experienced in Africa so far. Yaris sized potholes lined the roads waiting for its victim. Construction was taking place but it looked like slow progress. The problem became clear when we saw a roadwork sign. The one we're all familiar with. One guy sillouette digging a mound. Well behind the sign was literally one guy with a shovel with 300km of road behind him.
It certainly made us appreciate the Dunlop SP10 passenger tyres that have done a sterling job so far. Did I mention I used to be in the tyre game?
A couple of Windhoek beers and some Tbone on the braii was just the tonic after a treacherous drive. If the Tbone was the tonic the accomodation was the gin as we pitched our tent on the grounds of a luxurious lodge paying a few dollars for the priviledge of using all of their facilities.
The next day we decided to do three countries in one day. We took a tour of the border to Victoria Falls. Unaware of which side of the falls we would visit (Zambia or Zimbabwe) the welcome to Zimbabwe sign on arrival at the border gave it away. Here I was penalised for being a Brit charged 50 bucks as opposed to the thirty everybody else paid. When Layla remonstrated the tour guide responded with 'Britain make Zimbabweans pay 80!' Only the Canadians and Angolans had to pay more. Lord only knows what they've done to rub Mugabe up the wrong way.
It was a great day. The falls were colossal but there was a great rainforest walk you could do to view the falls from all different angles. We also decided to cross the suspension bridge passed the bungee jump rope and into Zambia. Here we were pounced on by touts selling bungee jumps, wooden carvings and other things to earn a swift dollar. It was hot. We felt a little harrassed so retreated to the comforts of the Victoria Falls Hotel where we were picked up and taken back to Botswana.
It's funny when travelling how a day can turn on its head. Disaster start to the day spilling coffee all over my front before driving to Chobe National Park where they took one look at the Yaris and shook their head. You needed a 4x4. Back at the lodge things didn't get any better as the river cruise into the park was full. We were at a loose end before Layla persisted and managed to get us a sunset cruise with a small operator.
I had visions of a dingy/canoe. However, while everbody queued for their cruise we skipped past the line on to a small tinny with a powerful motor and a friendly guide who proceeded to show and tell everything he knew about the Chobe river and the animals in and around. From why crocodiles bake to the hunting techniques of the sea eagle right through to the resiliance of the buffalo and as he explained with a straight face 'the hippo is the most dangerous animal in the river. It can knock you out the boat then cut you into pieces with teeth like scissors' But on the brighter side he explained 'hippo only use teeth for battle. They eat grass with their lips' and pointed to a freshly lip mowed stretch of grass.
The boat journey itself would have given us our money's worth but the animals we saw up at close quarters was almost surreal in this setting. Hippos bobbing up out the water to get a breather. Crocs baking in the setting sun. Elephants and buffalo coming down to the riverbank to get their drink at dusk. Giraffe in the distance Our first sight of the warthog and plenty of zebra coming out to say hi to the three people in the tinny. Hands down highlight of the trip so far.
The day was topped off with a meat buffet from the heavens at the lodge.
The following day we set off at 6am driving past some of the iconic images we'll remember Botswana for. These included elephants chewing trees on the side of the highway, impala crossing the road and election campaigners preaching through megaphones down the streets (nationwide voting would take place the next day.)
Onwards we would drive clocking up the kilometres through the buzz of Francistown where election fever had definitely took hold. Lots of activity, people dressed in their party's colours as well as dancing. Layla asked a guy at the petrol station whether he would be voting 'Of course' he said. 'I vote for the ruling party. The democrats. The reds.' He would be one of only 20% of Botswanans who vote. We would certainly have to read up on the outcome at a later date.
Over the border back to South Africa we travelled into amazing boulder landscape, through the small city of Polkane, surely the smallest city to host World Cup group games but a whole lot of chaotic atmosphere to boot. And up into the hills where we fell upon a lovely town called Haenertsburg with a lodge down a small gravel track. Arriving after dark and insisting we would be ok putting up our tent the owners would have nothing of the sorts giving us a log cabin that overlooked the mountains for the price of the campspot. Lovely lovely people and only our second night outside the tent since starting our African journey.
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