Lose a Week at Lake Toba

Thursday 30th July 2009
Day 33

Today was all about taking full advantage of our surrounds, namely the lake. A lot of swimming in the lake took place today as well as exploring the surrounds of TukTuk our location on Samosir Island in Lake Toba. The sunsets here are really something and we'll hopefully get some pictures uploaded as soon as possible. I've also updated the map at the bottom of the page to show the location of Sumatra.

We also booked a long haul coach journey for tomorrow to a place called Bukittingi which takes us down from Northern Sumatra into Western Sumatra. An area famous for its volcanoes and volcanic activity which is said to create a phenomenal landscape and makes the land extremely fertile. The problem is it's a mamouth 15 hour overnight coach journey. We decided to opt for the updgraded coach with toilet (not too sure how he alternative option works).

You can see how it's easy to get stuck here at Lake Toba. People plan to come for a couple of days and stay for weeks (no exaggeration!) However, we are keen to crack on....well sort of keen...maybe we could push that coach journey back a day. Layla.........

Motorcycle Diaries

Wednesday 29th July 2009
Day 32

Motorcycles were the order of the day. OK scooters but they call them motorbikes here which sounds a bit cooler.

Over breakfast we learned two things. One - they eat dogs on this island much to Layla's disgust and two - don't ride on the south side of the island as travellers were killed on these roads not so long ago. Fortunately for us we were exploring the other side of the island where the roads were apparently in good nick.

It was a great ride through paddy fields, passed bullocks on the road and school kids waving and shouting Hello! The architecture was also amazing, with Batak villages throughout the island lined with these amazingly designed homes distinct to the Batak people. Danau Toba is where the Batak people of Northern Sumatra originated from but there are now communites throughout the country.

We ended up on the far side of the island and across a dirt road that took us onto the mainland (which makes Samosir Island technically not an island). Here we went to a roadside cafe and Layla struck it off with the owner called Roseritta. Even though neither could speak a word of the other's language they were chatting for ages. Myself and a group of Indonesian labourers watched in amazment.

My turn to ride and the heavens opened on us. We took shelter under a random couple's veranda in the middle of nowhere with a rooster for company. It was one of those surreal travel moments stuck there with an elderly couple, expressionless but content, sat there watching the rain pour down over the miles of farmland in front of us while a rooster cocked (much to our amusment). There was also an odd guy kitted out in denim who also took shelter. Every time I looked at him he was just staring at me with a strange grin under his big thick moustache. Quite unnerving.

The rain eased and we took off again but the heavens opened once again but we pushed on. We then realised we'd taken a wrong turning so up into the hills we were head. We backtracked but mis-judged just how far off the route we'd come. With the warning over breakfast ringing in our ears we took it steady and made it back in one piece to the luxury of a hot shower and an evening of BBQ and traditional Batak song and dance put on by our accomodation.

Danau Toba

Tuesday 28th July 2009
Day 31

We woke up today with no clue of how we were going to get to Lake Toba, we just knew we wanted to get there. Speaking to the Spanish couple, our travelling companions from Medan to Bukit Lawang, we decided to share a minivan all the way to Lake Toba, an eight hour journey.

We would be dropped in Parapat where we would catch a ferry to Samosir Island which overlooks Lake Toba created by a volcanic eruption around 70,000 years ago. It left behind a lake situated at high altitude with an island the size of Singapore in the middle.

The journey was pretty cool driving through various plantations starting with palm oil, through to rubber which brought back distant tyre memories and onwards to coffee which Layla was particularly impressed with.

The road was pretty poor quality and the traffic in parts was horrendous. However, our driver was superb using his horn and indicators like I've never seen before. Crazy overtaking manouvres become part of the course as our driver swerved out of the way of oncoming traffic in the nick of time again and again.

However, we made it and got a good tip for accomodation with a lovely view of the lake. Back in its heyday this place was as popular as Hat Rin or Kuta but had fallen of the traveller route. However, when we asked the receptionist with a Dwight Yorke smile about motorcycle helmets for a trip the next day and his response was "You want magic mushrooms?" there still seemed to be a hangover from full moon parties of yesteryear.

Luckily for us in 2009 there was hardly a soul here.

Monkey Business

Monday 27th July 2009
Day 30

We've experience a few no-shows so far during our travels. The Kinabalu sunrise, the bats and now it seems we could add orangutans to the list.

We crossed the river in a make-shift boat to Gunung Leuser National Park and paid the entry fee to watch the morning orangutan feed. Despite the best efforts of the ranger to entice the apes up to the feeding platform, they were having none of it. To make matters worse our friend Russell Brand turned up kitted out in full trekking gear complete with headband and football socks. He's a pretty 'in your face' kind of guy.

Our luck changd, however, as we were called down to the headquarters building where three orangutans were hanging out. We were so close to them and the two year old was particularly comical showing off in the tree right in front of us. This particular orangutan rehabilitation centre was started in the 1970s and have helped many orangutans back to the wild. In particular may orphaned orangutans. We also learned that if a baby orangutan dies, the mother searches for a new baby and will fight another mother for their child...a little disturbing. Maybe their cheekiness is just a facade and these seemingly fun-loving apes have a dark sinister side. At this present moment we didn't care though!

Thate evening I got speaking to the ex-owner of our accomodation over a Bintang who explained the impact of the flash flood on the town and also some of his anxieties over the new development taking place to the detriment of the jungle. In particular the work the guy we spoke to yesterday was doing.

Bukit Lawang, Northern Sumatra

Sunday 26th July 2009
Day 29

Bukit Lawang is a beautiful spot located on a huge river with a jungle backdrop. Watching the town go about their business on a Sunday morning was marvelous.

It wasn't long before the river that dominates the town was full of kids playing and washing. Mother's were cleaning their clothes and the dad's were either not up yet or working out of town.

Layla and I booked into some new accomodation located at the end of town which is where we had breakfast. Over coffee you could see a big group of monkeys playing and Layla also spotted an orangutan in the jungle.

Fortunately a lot of the tourists to the national park weren't staying in town just here for the apes. This left the town to go about its usual activities with a light sprinkling of travellers blending in relatively unoticed.

We went for a long walk upstream for swim in the river where we got chatting to a chap chipping away at the footpath. It turns out this friendly fellow owns a lot of the land further upstream and has big plans for planting fruit trees, opening up the jungle for cheap day treks and the like. He had strong opinions on the work of the NGOs in the town since a flash flood pretty much destroyed the community in the early 2000s.

That night the electicity was cut, a common occurence here, and a severe thunder storm was closing in with the lightening illuminating the jungle. The heavens then opened and emptied water on the town as we munched into our curries.

Borneo to Sumatra

Saturday 25th July 2009
Day 28

A morning swim and cooked breakfast and we were on our way back to Kuching to pick up our backpacks and set off in search of Sumatra, Indonesia.

At Kuching Airport we bumped into the main man from our hostel - a quirky Chinese Malaysian fella. He explained he was off to watch Liverpool play Singapore that weekend on their Asia tour. "It is the closest we will get to see them with our own eyes." I proceeded to talk to him about everything football from teams in the Midlands to David Platt's failed coaching career. Turns out Villa played Kuching in 1990 as part of an Asian tour - a reward for finishing second in the league. Platty got four that day so is well regarded in these parts.

Our flight into Medan, Sumatra at 9pm was trechourous as we flew straight threw a severe thunderstorm with bolts of lightening piercing the west side of the city. We'd pre-arranged a car journey straight up to Bukit Lawang on the fringe of Gunung Leuser National Park which we shared with a couple from Barcelona. Whilst I'd heard that they'd laid a new road, this was only in certain stretches with some parts a road - quarry crossbreed. However, we reached our destination a little after midnight thanks to the handy driving of our friend who navigated the roads full of motorbikes, kids and animals like a master of his trade.

On arrival we were met by two chapparones, one carried Layla's bag and the other followed behind on a motorbike as we walked the final 20 minutes into town. The biker was a Sumatran Russell Brand http://www.russellbrand.tv/ in dress and manner and showed us to our room in typical flamboyant, over-exaggerated style that was lost on us at this late hour.

Layla's Birthday Treat

Friday 24th July 2009
Day 27

OK, it wasn't the best for Layla waking up on her birthday in a bunkbed in a room with no windows but the rest of the day certainly made up for it.

We stayed in a place by the beach called the Village House http://villagehouse.com.my/main.php which was a homestay retreat with all the trimmings. The whole place was really nicely done out in ironwood which is a type of dark, dark driftwood that naturally forms amazing shapes.

The reason for the homestay was you get a real personal touch with somebody there to wait on your every need. Layla loved it!

Beached As

Thursday 23rd July 2009
Day 26

We decided to hit the beach today for our first swim of the trip. It was very welcome!

On our return it came as no surprise to walk past one of the rehersal vehicles from the King's arrival wrapped aroud a traffic light. They were speeding around so close to each other, and add to this a severe downpour and you can see why this was inevitable. Better now though than when he arrives.

Layla had asked our minivan driver earlier whether the sirens annoy him and his response was quite simply "The King is coming."

Planet of the Apes

Wednesday 22nd July 2009
Day 25

An early start today as we head to Semenggoh Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre where we were hoping to see some orangutans. We were in luck as they were everywhere in the trees around us with no barriers whatsoever.

Highlight had to be 120kg Richie, who was grumpy, pounding open coconuts whilst other males waited up in the trees until he was gone and they could eat his leftovers. It was amazing to see their different personalities close up - they are scarily human-like.

The rest of the day was spent familiarising ourselves with Kuching. The city was full of sirens today as the king was coming to town. No, not Elvis, but the King of Malaysia which is a massive deal to these guys. Despite the King not coming until Sunday, we were told the police rehearse him coming five days prior so we should expect a lot of sirens a lot of the time.

Day One Of Legs Feeling OK Again

Tuesday 21st July 2009
Day 24

We just thought we'd mention that today is the first day that our legs are starting to feel like legs again after the Mount Kinabalu climb. It really took it out of us and we've been walking robotnic style ever since.

Saw a snake today up a tree which puts the 'animal in wild counter' at snake, monkey, bat(s), stick insects, lizard, crazy butterflies, significant amount of birdlife, caterpillars, earwigs and other stick insects in bat shite, catfish, pigmy squirrels, funny beatle with big nose (official name) and frogs that make a woof sound.

Onwards to Kuching where we checked into a nice hostel and took a walk around. Surprisingly lovely city full of bars and restaurants. Fell on a nice eatery that was showing a repeat of the Man Utd vs Malaysia game.

Like a Bat Out of Hell

Monday 20th July 2009
Day 23

I have to admit a strange affection for my head torch. Not as much affection as my cousin Andy Wag has for his but certainly more than most. So it comes as quite a surprise to find that Borneo attracts like-minded head-torchers who can't help but strap it on and hit some dark places like caves.

The head torch came out again today as we walked to Clearwater Cave. Halfway there you take an unassisted route through Moonmilk Cave which requires the use of your (yes, you guessed it) head torch.

We were in luck with the bat exodus today as three million of the buggers swarmed out of Deer Cave at dusk. On the way there we also saw a long-tailed monkey and some random stick insects and butterflies. We're loving Gunung Mulu but today is our last day as we leave tomorrow for Kuching.

Jurassic Park

Sunday 19th July 2009
Day 22

We head to the canopy skywalk (the longest in South East Asia) on an elevated footbridge which was a little precarious pulled together with wood and rope and not without a few cracks.

There were 16 in total and the experience of being raised into the jungle canopy like that was a total different experience to being on the forest floor in terms of the things that you can see.

The afternoon was taken up with a tour of Deer Cave. Our guide was a reincarnation of Stece Irwin, this time as a female Malaysian who loved talking about survival instincts out in the jungle with nothing but nature at your disposal.

We saw some stalagmite stalogtite action in a smaller cave with the highlight or lowlight being a German lady smacking her head off a low-lying one. It was a fair crack - she nearly went down. We then went to Deer Cave, famous from Planet Earth as the place with the bat crap. Three million bats habitat in there and there was mountains of their doings all over the cave which in turn are habitated by lots of creatures who never see light of day.

For us the cave though the cave itself was mindblowing. At its highest point its 180 metres and claims to be the biggest cave in the world. The idea was to then exit cave and watch the bats swarm out of the cave in a mass exodus to get a dusk feeding. Unfortunately for us though a tropical downpour meant the bats weren't playing ball tonight.

across a long wooden footbridge in the morning.

Into the Wild

Saturday 18th July 2009
Day 21

Lovely owners of the hotel sent us on our way in a cab with a driver who was pure grin. A quick flight to Gunung Mulu National Park awaited us with a stopover in Miri. Problem was that it was highly advised that you pre-book as this place was booked out months in advance. We decided to chance it but it was decididly risky as the only real way in was via plane.

Layla was less nervous than me but the nerves vanished as we flew into a place that looked like the Borneo we'd read about. Thick jungle forest and beautiful mountains.

An anxious wait in the queueand a generous chap behind the counter took pity on us and popped us in a dorm.

Got speaking to a nice couple in a similar boat after a lovely beef curry and veg dish followed by a few Tiger beers at the local over the suspension bridge shared with Dean from Acocks Green.

Laban Rata - Mount Kinabalu Summit (altitude 4095 metres)

The things you do for a good sunrise!

This had to be one of the most full-on days of our lives. Standing 4,000 metres up a mountain holding on to a rope for dear life up a vertical rock face in pitch black whilst wind and rain slammed into the side of us we turned into each other and said "What the hell are we doing?"

We were up at 2:15am and downstairs for supper which was pretty much breakfast part one. Outside the wind had picked up and rain had come down overnight. Fred warned us that the conditions were going to be tough encouraging us not to climb. He then delivered a hammer blow saying that there would definitely be no visibility up there for sunrise.

Being the ever optimists and determined to get to the top, the four of us cracked on in the pitch black, head torches on and into the unknown. After some heavy traffic to start with a few overtaking manouvres got us some free space as we started hitting some steep gradients, climbing hands and knees up rock faces and pulling ourselves up ropes but in place to help scale this part of the mountain. The problem was, the higher we got the further into the cloud got and the windier and wet it got.

It started getting really cold and the gradient was so steep which was made all the more difficult in the wind and rain. However, we got to the top a little before sunrise but came to the conclusion as because we could barely see each other's faces two feet away there was no way we'd see the sunrise up over Borneo.

The descent back down to the hut was really good fun using the ropes to absail down and negotiating the rocks as the water spilled down between them was amazing. There were also times that you felt on another planet, walking across a rock face in neither day or night we felt like real explorers.....until we were overtaken by a German that is!

However, to add insult to injury as we approached Laban Rata, the heavens had another treat in store for us as they opened and raindrops the size of water balloons started hitting us. We reached the shelter saturated.

We had s good breakfast wearing some random clothes (the only dry ones we had) including Layla wrapped in a towel and me in some thermal pants that put a little too much on show.

A bit of a 30 minute snooze and we ready for descent. Our hiking clothes were wet but we picked up a good speed and they started to dry. The descent was tough as legs were already weary but the conditions made it worse. The main thing that kept us going was the people we met going down who were only too happy to stop, chat and use it as an excuse to rest for a couple of minutes.

The last 2km in particular were a killer but we were back in the lush tropical rainforest which was stunning even more now it had got a severe dumping of rain.

We arrived at 1:30pm at Timpohon Gate at the bottom of the summit trail after 9 hours of walking. We were extrmely exhausted but so chuffed to have made it. The one bitter point was not seeing the sunrise which is the real drawcard but the whole experience was amazing.

Mount Kinabalu - Laban Rata ( altitude 3272 metres)

Thursday 16th July 2009
Day 19

I'm writing this from Laban Rata hut after a day's walking up the summit trail of Mount Kinabalu.

The climb was pretty taxing with a continuous steep gradient up rocks and steps. It was a beautiful climb in clear sunshine through tropical rainforest into more baron bits of mountain and back into dense forest but reaching the shelter was a huge relief as oxygen levels were getting increasngly low and the old legs were starting to feel the strain.

Our guide is a friendly bloke called Fred. At the bottom of the mountain were the fastest times for reaching the summit and returning. A Spanish bloke had the fastest clocking 2 hours and 30 minutes but Fred informed us that guides couldn't enter this and most had beaten this time. Fred himself had done it in 2 hours 20 minutes and wasn't the quickest.

As well as meeting heaps of interesting people up the climb who'd stop and have a chin wag there were also workers carrying huge supplies up the mountain overtaking you. Some had short shorts on so you could check out their legs. Roberto Carlos' had nothing on these bad boys!

Gearing up for the Big Climb

Wednesday 15th July 2009
Day 18

Today we set off up to Mount Kinabalu National Park home to Mount Kinabalu, the tallest mountain south of the Himalayas (4095 metres). Tomorrow we would climb this beast that towers over Kota Kinabalu.

We head up into the foothills in a small minivan packed to the rafters and as we reached higher altitude the humidity and the temperature dropped nicely to the point that when we reached the park it was quite chilly (long T-shirt chilly)

We paid some additional money for our insurance, park permit and hiking certificate and checked into our prebooked accomodation which was rather nice set in the lush green forest. We also teamed up with another couple Ivor, from Adelaide and Aimee from New Zealand, to share a guide for the next day's climb.

Welcome to Borneo

Tuesday 14th July 2009
Day 17

A couple of airport devices I've been really impressed with. Firstly Emirates now offer mobile phone access while you're in flight. It was only a matter of time I suppose but it was the first time I'd seen this offering during our trip from Christchurch to Melbourne. The second was the Dyson Airblade, a fantastic instant hand dryer facility in the gents of airports. Dyson - you've done it again!

Fling long haul with Air Asia filled us with a little anxiety, especially as we'd recently seen them running a reality competition to find a pilot. However, we needn't have been anxious, the flight to KL and from KL to Kota Kinabalu was fine and the plane was so new it smelt like a new car.

Arriving in Kota Kinabalu was a bit of a shell shock having come from temperatures as low as minus 14 we were now in a location with an average temp of around 30 in July and it was extremely humid. Howver, we took it pretty easy checking into a nice little hostel and checking out the night markets which were full of amazing foods.

I'd forgotten how into their sports the Malaysians are. Every other person seemed to be wearing a bloody Man Utd shirt and the sports betting shop was the busiest in town. Managed to catch a bit of boxing from Vegas on the TV in a busy KK cafe with a massive crowd watching the fight with betting slip clutched in hand.

A Sad Farewell

Sunday 12th July 2009
Day 15

Today was always going to be tough...and it was.

We had a lovely morning with everyone before it was time to say goodbye to Ben, Tia and the Lohs. We then drove up to Christchurch Airport with James and Shilo where we said our goodbyes as they set off back home. We had another day in Christchurch before flying to Borneo.

Even after an amazing trip around New Zealand it was still hard to say cheerio and Layla was understandably very upset.

We tried to cheer up with a long walk and going to see The Hangover at the cinema before a well needed early night.

Emersons, Cake and Farmer

Saturday 11th July 2009
Day 14

A slow day, we investigated the area a little further before heading back to Fleurs to tuck into Ben and Tia's wedding cake that we had left there. We also had a couple of Emersons, a fantastic drop brewed locally in Dunedin.

Another seafood fest on the evening - this time Cajun coated salmon washed down with Emersons. A few nightcaps with James was a nice end to the NZ adventure.

A Nice Day for a White Wedding

Friday 10th July 2009
Day 13

The girls were off early for hair and make up at the Lohs whilst the boys got ready at the Champion's residence calming nerves with tea before slowly kitting ourselves out for the big day.

Whilst the morning had reached minus fourteen, the day was perfect with snow on the ground and a clear sky.

We arrived at the church nice and early as Ben talked through the detail with Father Jim, Will belted out tunes with the organist.

Eventually Layla, Shilo and Angie arrived and news filtered through that the bride was on her way. The ceremony was beautiful and despite the photos looking picture perfect they still couldn't do it justice.

We then packed our bags and head in convoy up Mount John for photos in the snow.

Lunch in Fairlie and onwards to Moreki where the reception at Fleurs Place put the cherry on the fish cake. Opening with crayfish, setting the scene with seafood chowder, following with flat fish, blue cod rolled with smokey bacon, roe, flounder and mussels the curtain raiser.

Speeches were fantastic and we went to bed with bellies full, nicely seasoned in Emersons.

Wedding Eve

Thursday 9th July 2009
Day 12

An early morning walk to the church in question was a mission in itself. Even though the walk was, at most, two minutes the temperature was well below zero.

After a morning in the kitchen cooking a roast from the heavens we had a salmon lunch, fresh from the salmon farm the day before.

It was then spa time as we head to Tekapo's hot pools overlooking the snowy mountains for a bit of R&R. Little did I know I would pay for the extravagance later in the day.

The roast went down a treat although the Lohs couldn't make the feast as Angie had twist her ankle. We cracked on and the evening was spent getting the final touches ready for the big day tomorrow.

What a time to get piles!

And what a time to accidently put salt in my mother in law's tea!!

You Can't Have it All Your Own Way

Wednesday 8th July
Day 11

You can't have it all your own way.

Today my new sunglasses broke, I lost a glove and the Loh family all in one day.

The glasses were a bit of a bugger as they were really for later in our adventures. The glove meant a vigurous search as one just wouldn't cut it in minus five and the Loh family was probably the more serious as on arrival to Lake Tekapo (the wedding venue), I was given directions of where they were staying and we completely lost them.

Our rental car wasn't looking too good at this point either. A chip in the window was now a crack and the car was making strange sounds on hard turns, almost like it was crying with pain.

You can't have it all your own way.

Jack Be Nimble

Tuesday 7th July 2009
Day 10

We hit the Codrona slopes for the second time today. A bit more cloud than last week but once we'd driven up the mountain above it the view was amazing.

It was a great, exhausting day of skiing. I found it pretty frustrating not being able to work those planks on my feet as well as I thought I could but definitely improved as the day went on.

There was the token moment where we went down an intermediate slope for the first time which felt vertical. I spent more time on my arse than my skis and took one extremely heavy fall. One ski was left up the mountain but a kind gentleman brought it down. However, I couldn't put it on as the slope was way too steep. I ended up walking sidewards and shame-faced down the slope with skis over shoulder as Layla stood at the bottom with a big grin filming my misery.

Had a fantastic time though.

Lake Hawea The Lads

Monday 6th July
Day 9

We started the morning with a walk around the Lake Matheson circuit. Its mainly rainforest with a point at lake level where you can obtain a perfect reflection of the mountain range.

Our next destination was Lake Hawea where we will spend two nights. Highlight of the journey down aside from Thunder Waterfall and the snowball fight had to be the rock beach where people had started building rocks, pebbles and driftwood into formations on the coast.

East to West

Sunday 5th July
Day 8

We took a long walk up to a waterfall before breakfast. The cold defintitely gives you a good appetite. I couldn't stop eating at breakfast.

The scenic drive down towards the West Coast was beautiful where we had a stop of to stock up on food supplies. Nine people food shopping comes highly unrecommended : ) We got there though and head on a windey road to Fox Glacier. A stop of at Franz Josef followed by another stop off for mother-in-law's motion sickness (I hope it wasn't my driving) were just minor stop offs before we arrived safe and sound in Fox Glacier village for dinner.

Arthur's Pass

Saturday 4th July 2009
Day 7

We spent the morning at Akaroa, a peninsula an hour out of Chirstchurch before heading onwards and upwards to Arthur's Pass. Snow chains were't required fortunately but it got pretty icy along some of those windy roads.

Arthur's Pass was thick with snow and we did a short walk before sunset and the rest of the gang arrived for dinner. The in-laws hadn't met before but some good ice-breakers (no oun intended) and funny conversations culminating in Shilo nearly burning the restaurant down after throwing her napkin onto the gas fire she thought was an open fire and walking away.

The Champions Arrive

Friday 3rd April
Day 6

This had to be the earliest start. The clock read 7am so I gave Layla a nudge, we packed the van, got changed, started the car, was about to set off when we looked again at the clock which read 1:17am. The mornings are so dark here, it's an easy mistake to make ok.

At a less painful hour in the morning we set of for Christchurch and met up with Layla's parents James and Shilo. We would catch up with Ben (Layla's brother) and Tia (his fiance) and her family tomorrow at Arthur's Pass, the highest town in New Zealand before a week on the road culminating in their marriage at the Church of the Good Shepherd at Lake Tekapo a week today.

Caught at Fleurs

Thursday 2nd April 2009
Day 5

We departed Curio Bay with and reached Dunedin for lunch. Unimpressed with the city and the weather we soldiered on up the East Coast hoping to take a big chunk out of the drive as we had Layla's parents to meet at Christchurch Airport tomorrow at 2.

Disaster struck as we decided to make a quick pitstop to check out Fleurs Place in Moreki, where Layla's brother will be having his wedding reception a week tomorrow. It's famous for it's seafood so we ordered in a seafood chowder and a couple of local of beers. A few beers later and we realised we weren't going anywhere.

Ended up getting the ok with Fleur to sleep in her carpark : )

Weather Takes A Turn

Wednesday 1st July 2009
Day 4

I am yet to mention the weather. Mainly because it has been stunning. Yes - a little chilly (below zero chilly) but clear blue skies. However, today we awoke to damp and mist. This led us to the easy decision of skipping the Sounds and heading to the Catlins.

All it took was driving over the top of a range to bring back the blue in the sky. The scenery also changed dramatically into lush green farmland and rolling hills. It was like driving from the Swiss Alps to rural Wales in two days.

We landed in Curio Bay, famous for its ancient fossil sea bed and rare yellow-eyed penguins that waddle in out of the sea at dusk.